Driveshaft / half shaft carnage
I must say, one of the worst remove and replace jobs on Toyota Camry cars is the driveshaft (ugh, I mean “half shaft”, that’s apparently what everyone uses). I’ve only done three, and this one has been by far the worst.
I’ve done other makes, and they have been removed via some hex bolts, or roll pins or even just yanking hard, without even disassembly of the suspension. Toyota sux in this regard (though I think they get the rest of the car pretty much right).
Unless you have arrived here via a search engine, this is going to be a boring post. It’s also most unchristmas-like, despite the date, so you have been warned.
–below the fold–
Anyway, I’ve never been a fan of the speedy boots, and rebuilt driveshafts are pretty cheap, so I decided to go that route.
The first thing to do is get the car up and on a jackstand. Remove the wheel, the driveshaft nut, then the brakes, and then the brake disk rotor. By unbolting the lower control arm, you can pivot the strut away from the car and get enough slack to remove the driveshaft from the center of the wheel (steering knuckle). (That’s about all the detail you are going to get, this is not a how-to here.)
Now comes the PITA part, removing the other end from the transaxial. There is a specal type of snap ring keeping the shaft in place, you don’t have to remove it before you pull the driveshaft. In fact you can’t, because it’s inside the transaxel, inaccessible There is a special tool, but I did not find it promptly because I was searching for “driveshaft” and not “half shaft”. It was also just days before Christmas, and I was not able to find it locally, and I was not going to attempt to have it shipped.
If you are swapping out the driveshaft, at this point it’s to your advantage to remove the large clamp around the inner CVJ rubber boot and remove most of driveshaft. If you think you will ever have to reassemble, put witness marks on the driveshaft, so you can reassemble exactly as before. Now you have just the stub in the transaxial. If you’re lucky, and especially if you have the car up on a lift, you can use an assortment of prybars and pop that joint out with a bunch of luck. I recommend a slide hammer. After swearing and prying a full day, I broke down and tried to locate one. I was able to borrow this tool, by putting down a c-note as a deposit. I used the single hook tool on one of the ridges on the side of the driveshaft stub and got that puppy out in about three slaps. It’s easy with the right tools.
Getting the new one in was fun. Coat the end with Dexron and align the snap ring so the opening is facing down. Wiggle while sticking it in, so the teeth engage properly. There will be some resistance, but it should be easier than prying the damn thing out. I’m ashamed to admit this, but when it got stuck on me, I got out the BFH.
Normally I have a bit more finesse than this, but it was late and I am claiming fatigue. I tried to insert the male end without Dexron lubrication, and also apparently my snap ring got snagged. I got stuck about halfway in. Because it was a hassle getting it out in the first place, I figured it would be tough to get it back in. I got the thing jammed. It was pure heck getting it back out too. The snap ring and my BFH really tore up those spines.
After careful inspection, the inner spines on the transaxial seemed to be OK. Some engineer over at Toyota likely spec that part to a higher hardness. I ended up making up a frankenstein driveshaft consisting of the inner undamaged part of the old driveshaft attached to the rest of the new part. I used a heavy duty handcuff sized zip-tie to replace the metal clamp that is usually used to hold the boot attached to the driveshaft. I’ve used the zip-ties before in this way, and I know that it works very well. The best part is that no special tools are needed.
Reassembly is the reverse of removal (heh). Actually you kinda need three hands here when you go to attach the lower control arm. I had a helper on the pry bar, forcing the lower arm down to it’s full travel so I could ease the strut over, engage the studs, and tighten the screws. That’s the only tricky part. I put a new rotor in and tried to replace the front pads, but I found out that they did not have the proper holes for the anti-rattle springs. The old ones were only slightly worn, so I reused them.
The other PITA part of this job is the dust screen that’s on the back side of the rotor. If you are not careful, you will bend it, and then it will scrape on the wheel rim when you reassemble it.
I used a 10, 14, 17 and 30 mm sockets, extensions and ratchets. A few pry bars that did not work, a slide hammer that did, can of brake cleaner, new pads, rotors, a zip-tie, a little Dexron, and a ball peen hammer. You also needed a torque wrench that goes up to 217 foot-pounds, if you want to do this job by the book. I should not have used that 3 pound sledge (aka BFH). I got the procedure by accessing Mitchell “on demand”, and printing out the proper pages. It’s just barely adequate. I wish I had the factory manual.
If you drain the transaxial, like the procedure tells you to, you will need a 10 mm allen head socket, and a funnel attached to a long piece of hose to refill.
That’s just about everything I wish I knew before I started, so there. You’re welcome. I haven’t been able to find anything good online (especially regarding the snap ring) If you’re facing the same thing, I hope you end up finding your way here first.
(Update: I did the other side a bit later. I had a heck of a time because the bearing was seized on it’s holder. Kroll to the rescue. Read all about it here.)
ganns Says :
Great post !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
2007-03-29 10:38 PermalinkSteve Says :
Excellent!!! Thanks for the post!
2009-01-24 15:29 PermalinkStandard Mischief Says :
If I knew how popular this was going to be, I’d have done a better job. Even the factory manual is lacking.
2009-01-28 06:03 PermalinkMatt Howard Says :
Well, I’m glad to see someone else has had the same problem I had. Everything and everyone I’ve talked to says you just pry it out. I’ve done everything humanly possible with pry bars and hammers and nothing has come close to working. I know Toyota mechanics use a specific tool for this. I will go by and talk with them. I put my car back together until I could gather more info. The right side came apart with no problem. When I work on something I don’t like it to look “used” when I get finished. Let’s just say I’m glad this part of the car is low and gets dirty and oily. Great post. This kind of info is what makes the internet so great.
2009-05-18 13:51 PermalinkStandard Mischief Says :
Matt,
I can’t believe the response I’ve gotten from this post, even the Sienna (think Toyota mini-van) people have been hitting me up. Well’ If I knew then what I knew now I’d have done more than take a few close-up picture at the last minute.
The bad news is that it looks like I’ll have to do the passenger’s side again due to a hit-and-run. The good news is that I’ll do a much better job at taking step by step photos.
2009-05-18 21:15 Permalinkbrian Says :
I just wanted to add that I had a hard time prying it out when I did mine too. I bought one of the long pry bars, and one medium one from Harbor Freight Tools. It cost me about $10, and I had my dad pry from underneath while I pryed from above. Popped right out. You just need the long pry bars with handles. The are angled at the ends to make it go in there easier.
(You also need to remove the air cleaner and the cover above the axle held on by two bolts to pry from above BTW.)
2009-06-20 20:52 PermalinkThomas Peery Says :
Thank You so much for taking the time to post this information. I have two different manuals and neither explain the process so well. I am at the point of removing the shaft from the transaxle and you have answered my questions before starting. I have always had a good experience with Speedi-Boots 30-60 minutes and your done. It seems that they are in short supply these days. I can not find one that fits.I also have used good wire ties for clamps with great success.
2009-07-17 22:32 PermalinkMwr1550 Says :
Thanks for your blog, I’m about to replace the left halfshaft on my 96 camry and am a little nervous about running into problems. Your info has done much to calm the butterflies
2009-08-29 09:25 PermalinkRyan Says :
Thank you for posting this. This was the first job I did on my Camry in 1999. Now, in 2009 it needs another half shaft because both boots on that shaft are split. In 1999 my father and I must have spent 2 hours prying on it with curved pry bars and all kinds of crap. We finally managed to pop it out of there with two bars prying and a hammer tapping on a curved tire tool. It was probably a freak event. The people who say that you just pull real hard don’t know this car and don’t know what they are talking about. The first time we heaved on it, we pulled the rubber boot off and both rolled backwards with the rest of the shaft in our hands. Now, in 2009, after breaking off a pry bar in my hand (ouch) I read this post and then started calling the local auto parts shops until I found one that rented tools (pay for the tools then 100% refund upon return). I ended up with a large size 3 knuckled puller that I could get over the ridges on the tulip after I removed that silly metal shield on the top that attaches to the casing. I also got a slide hammer that fit through the middle of the puller hub. Exactly 5 medium hits popped it out. It was beautiful. It was out within 6 minutes of me getting home with those tools. It even came out even though one of the puller tabs slipped off while I was hitting it. The two were sufficient. To put the new one in, I put the 30mm nut on the very end to protect the threads and gave it a about 4 medium jolts with my sledge hammer. I tried a smaller hammer first, but the extra mass seems to work better than a lesser mass at a higher velocity. Don’t want to damage the bearings after all.
2009-11-07 22:59 PermalinkS D Says :
Most info I have found yet on this subject. Starting with the passenger side shaft on my 1995 Camry has been a ridiculous job, unlike any other shafts I replaced. The outer half came off so using a slide hammer on the axle end obviously won’t work, as several parts stores have suggested. Removed the lock nut and clip, and don’t you know the inner shaft does not pull out of the transaxle by hand as the Haynes manual says it should. A 2 pound hammer with short bar does not budge it nor do the pry bars. Perhaps that outer bearing is seized to the carrier. I will try to locate a slide hammer and give her a yank. Thanks for the posts.
2010-03-04 01:32 Permalinkbob Says :
Another website had the following recommendation:
http://phorums.com.au/archive/index.php/t-199284.html
There’s a secret.
2010-03-20 20:24 PermalinkI went through the exact same thing.
You do need a good pry bar. I found one at NAPA that has been very
useful for a variety of other purposes. Cost around $30, one end was
tapered, the main point is that it was very sturdy – solid quality
construction. I also used a pipe as a “cheater bar” extension to gain
an overall length of apx. 18 – 24 inches.
But here is the secret.
The Factory Service Manual tells you to position the open ends of the
circlip at the bottom when installing the new axle.
If you have a replacement axle, look at the installed circlip and
notice how that when the gap is as the top, the solid part of the clip
hangs down slightly at the bottom, whereas when the gap is at the
bottom, the solid part is recessed into the groove near the end of the
axle at the top. That is the position you want the clip prior to
removing the axle.
The problem is that you cannot see the circlip on the installed axle
end inside the differential.
Here’s how it is done.
Push the axle in slightly and rotate it apx. one third turn. Then pry
with enough force to see if it will move, but not such pressure that
you damage the clip.
If not successful, turn the axle another one third turn, push in
attempting to get that clip to drop into position, and pry again.
Then turn and try again.
You want that clip to slip into the proper position.
When you get it right, the axle will slip out relatively easily after
overcoming the initial resistance of the clip.
Standard Mischief Says :
Thanks, Bob.
2010-03-20 23:57 PermalinkStandard Mischief » Kroil – the best penetrating oil Says :
[...] it’s not a complete step-by-step, the driver’s side half-shaft was covered in my blog here. 2006-01-11 22:24 by Standard Mischief, Filed under:payola free reviews, reassembly is the reverse [...]
2010-05-19 12:14 Permalinkmilo Says :
I have had the same problems as other readers but here is a twist. I pulled the axle and it parted at the inner rubber boot. Now I have a thing called a ‘tulip’ staring at me and not much space to get a pry bar under the car as it is only as high as the jack would take it, now on blocks.Anyone have any good ideas of how to get a grip of the ‘tulip’.
2010-05-24 05:58 Permalinkparts puller Says :
parts puller…
In my opinion about parts puller, I agree with your post : Standard Mischief ” Driveshaft / half shaft carnage.Good job,Keep walking!…
(Edited to add: I’m shocked and annoyed that you posted a comment just to direct people to your website, just so you could direct people to Amazon, just so you would get a tiny little referrer kickback for buying a slap hammer. And you never even offered to cut me in on the deal! I’ve neutered your URL. Thanks for playing.)
2010-08-16 07:20 Permalinkmack Says :
thanks to all for the postings. i got the job to be done on 96 camry with 110k. you have increased my knowledge a lot. i plan to pay to have job done rather than try it. i have eliminated the dealer but have yet to find a reputible mechanic.
2011-02-25 16:13 Permalinkjeffinchrist Says :
Definitely use a slap hammer after cutting off the shaft at the inner boot. The claws will have to grip the outside of the housing, as there is nothing inside to set the teeth of the puller jaws into. Prybars didn’t work for me, and I had to cut off the shaft nut as well. Removing the strut from the steering knuckle was fine (instead of the tie rod, etc.), and I had to loosen the strut at the top to create clearance for the slaphammer.
2011-04-16 19:38 PermalinkTed J Says :
Thanks for the info on removal as above. The manuual I have says removal as same as Manual Transaxle, but the fitting on the diff end is different as I found out. It,s a Gregory Manual and is as useless as #$% on a bull for this repair.
2011-06-26 19:49 PermalinkI shall go and look for a slide hammer and a decent prybar before I waste more time.